Kandungan disediakan oleh Eric Horst and Eric J. Hörst. Semua kandungan podcast termasuk episod, grafik dan perihalan podcast dimuat naik dan disediakan terus oleh Eric Horst and Eric J. Hörst atau rakan kongsi platform podcast mereka. Jika anda percaya seseorang menggunakan karya berhak cipta anda tanpa kebenaran anda, anda boleh mengikuti proses yang digariskan di sini https://ms.player.fm/legal.
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Consider Molly Sims and her best friend Emese Gormley your new girlfriends on speed dial for all your pressing beauty and wellness needs. Is Botox a good idea? Should you try that new diet you saw on the Today Show? Molly and Emese have your back. With guests ranging from top health and beauty experts to their industry friends, you’ll get the scoop on the latest trends, which products and procedures to try, and which to run from-- and they just might be doing it all with a drink in hand. Prepare to be obsessed.
Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast
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Kandungan disediakan oleh Eric Horst and Eric J. Hörst. Semua kandungan podcast termasuk episod, grafik dan perihalan podcast dimuat naik dan disediakan terus oleh Eric Horst and Eric J. Hörst atau rakan kongsi platform podcast mereka. Jika anda percaya seseorang menggunakan karya berhak cipta anda tanpa kebenaran anda, anda boleh mengikuti proses yang digariskan di sini https://ms.player.fm/legal.
Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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112 episod
Tandakan semua sebagai (belum) dimainkan
Manage series 99159
Kandungan disediakan oleh Eric Horst and Eric J. Hörst. Semua kandungan podcast termasuk episod, grafik dan perihalan podcast dimuat naik dan disediakan terus oleh Eric Horst and Eric J. Hörst atau rakan kongsi platform podcast mereka. Jika anda percaya seseorang menggunakan karya berhak cipta anda tanpa kebenaran anda, anda boleh mengikuti proses yang digariskan di sini https://ms.player.fm/legal.
Training and performance podcasts by Eric Hörst, the internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and climber of 40 years. Monthly podcasts detail the latest training techniques to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. With his unique combination of veteran experience and knowledge of the cutting-edge research, Eric presents practical, effective guidelines to climb harder, reduce injury risk, and maximize the experience of moving over stone. Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches and his eight books (and many foreign translations) have sold more than 300,000 copies worldwide. His latest book release is the 3rd edition of Training For Climbing. Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com
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112 episod
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1 #112: EXPERT: Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training with Dr. Thomas Cunningham 52:24
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Welcome to the first episode in a special series of performance-focused conversations with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. In this fast-paced discussion, we dive into a wide range of topics, including tips for optimizing climbing training, injury prevention, key dietary interventions, performance hacks, and the role of self-discipline and sacrifice. We also explore best practices tailored for hard-training climbers over 35. No matter your age, this episode is packed with actionable insights you can start applying today! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Coach Eric Hörst's welcome statement. 0:30 - Introduction of my guest, Thomas Cunningham, MD. 2:40 - Thomas' bio and backstory 3:20 - "Medicine 3.0" ...aka functional medicine to optimize health and performance. 6:00 - Overview of topics we'll be covering today. 7:35 - Tips for older climbers. 10:00 - The importance of being intentional in your training. 11:00 - Eric's use of 2-a-day workouts. 13:00 - Scheduling your workouts. 15:45 - Specificity of training. 17:30 - Strive for "injury avoidance" mindset. 19:50 - Training and time hacks for busy individuals. 21:00 - Thomas' tips for effective cragging and projecting. 24:00 - The benefits of having a home training wall and/or equipment. 27:50 - Eric's "do something every day" MO for older athletes. 29:00 - Scheduling aerobic vs. anaerobic training sessions. 30:30 - A quick review of some popular training and bio-hacks. 31:35 - Daily protein requirements for hard-training climbers. 33:20 - Pros and cons of fasting... 36:00 - Protein timing and use of supplemental protein for reaching daily protein targets. 38:00 - Thomas and Eric serve up a few things they wish they knew when they were younger climbers. 38:45 - Proactive approach to injuries... 40:15 - Learning to listen to your body's sensations...and heeding its warning signals. 41:20 - Developing self-awareness of your recovery status. 42:20 - The vital importance of actual climbing time (over time spent strength and fitness training). 44:45 - Developing better recovery practices. 46:00 - Importance of a proper warm-up process before climbing. 46:45 - The power of self-discipine and sacrifice in the long-term pursuit of your climbing potential. 48:20 - Eric's metaphor of "taking your foot off the break...and going full gas" with your climbing! 50:35 - Wrap up 50:50 - Contact information for Eric -- DM @eric_horst on Instagram 51:10 - Watch this interview on Eric's T4C YouTube channel . Subscribe! 51:15 - Please leave a review on Apple Podcasts 51:40 - Goodbye and "Hörst Out! *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva , Maxim Ropes , DMM Climbing , Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel . Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.…
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1 #111: Training & Life Upgrades to Send 2025! 47:12
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Dear Listener, How about -- together -- we all try to SEND 2025? In other words, let's try to upgrade our thoughts and actions in all we do to make 2025 our best year yet! Towards this end, in this episode I will serve up tips for improving your training, elevating your climbing, and advancing in other important life areas! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Eric's greetings... 0:45 - Introductory comments on striving to live your dream life...in climbing and beyond. 3:38 - Upgrade #1: Improve your time management to maximize time spent engaged in important activities. 10:33 - Upgrade #2: Level-up your training by cutting the "fluff", adding some novelty, and targeting your weaknesses. 20:10 - Upgrade #3: Elevate your thoughts and take control of your self-talk to help drive massive action towards your goals. 29:50 - Upgrade #4: Refine your day-to-day nutrition to support energy, focus, strength gains, recovery ability, and injury resistance. *** Calculate your personal protein requirements with this research-based online calculator. *** 37:21 - Upgrade #5: Analyze and better manage your stress levels. Strive to reduce (or eliminate) "bad stress", while seeking out and embracing sources of "good stress." 45:12 - Eric's summary tips, comments, and best wishes. Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel . *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva , Maxim Ropes , DMM Climbing , Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel . Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.…
In this brief episode, I invite you to join my "Send 2025" New Year's Challenge! JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >> I designed this free 6-week challenge to help motivate and inspire a fresh, focused, and optimistic start to the new year...and hopefully help you set off on your best year ever! The challenge is action-oriented -- so we'll ask you to set some achievable short-term goals to reach for during the 6-weeks of the challenge. These action items can relate to your training and nutrition goals for the new year, but also target bad habits you’d like to change…or other behaviors that are holding you back from reaching the next level in climbing, in your career or relationships, or any other important life area. To serve as your North Star for this challenge, we will ask you to select a specific "Challenge Goal" for the 6 weeks of the contest, as well as set a "Send 2025 Mega Goal" that you'll be working towards throughout the year ahead. We hope that with our encouragement and support you will reach all your goals big or small! ************************************* JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >> ************************************* SUPPORT THE TRAINING FOR CLIMBING PODCAST! Visit our sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition at PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva , Maxim Ropes , DMM Climbing , Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel . Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.…
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1 #109: Alex Megos Interviews Eric Hörst (What?!) 1:16:23
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The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?" Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy it! THE Alex Megos has recently launched his own podcast, and during his recent visit to the States he asked me to sit down for a conversation about the history of training, personalized program design, nutrition and recovery, and much much more. Of course, I was excited for this unique opportunity...and we had a very lively hour and ten minute conversation that I think every stoked climber will enjoy! There's lots of talk of training and nutritional nuance...and numerous wide-ranging clues for elevating your performance. Listen in! Here's a rundown of some key moments: 0:30 - Eric's intro to this collaboration with the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and YouTube Channel . 2:40 - To begin, Alex asks about my backstory as a climber...and my interest in training for climbing. 5:30 - Some interesting training history. 9:00 - Beginning of climbing performance research. 10:10 - The importance of a personalized approach to climbing and performance. 10:40 - The role of genetics and natural talent. 12:40 - The value of having a veteran coach. 17:00 - A "get the basics right" approach to training. 20:00 - Mental aspects of climbing hard...and the complexities of our sport. 23:05 - It's NOT always about the grades! 24:00 - A bit about Eric's twin careers... 29:00 - Diet and nutritional mistakes. 32:00 - Importance of protein for hard-training athletes. 33:45 - Vitamin D deficiency is not uncommon...and potentially impactful on health and performance. 36:00 - A primer on the research and optimal use of hydrolyzed collagen. Also, the backstory on Supercharged Collagen . 40:00 - Potential benefits of beetroot supplements, such as PhysiVantage Sendure X . 44:00 - The best supplement for climbers? 45:00 - Alex and Eric discuss the benefits (and potential draw backs) of Creatine Monohydrate supplementation. 51:00 - Personalized nutrition 52:30 - Becoming an effective self-coach. 54:50 - The power of Discipline. 58:00 - Finding the right level of commitment for reaching your goals. 58:50 - How near is 5.16a/9c+? 59:50 - A few questions from listeners... 1:02:30 - Pros/cons of being on a ketogenic diet for athletes? 1:05:40 - Are all carbohydrates basically the same? 1:06:50 - Using a continuous glucose monitor (CGM) 1:08:45 - Nutrient timing. 1:12:00 - Alex's closing comments 1:13:00 - Links to the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and Alex & Chris Hanke's awesome YouTube Channel! 1:14:00 - Eric's final comments SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva , Maxim Ropes , DMM Climbing , Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel . Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.…
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1 #108: BEST OF: 13 Send Tips That Can Make All The Difference In The World! 1:03:05
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In this episode, coach Hörst shares 13 little things that can make a BIG difference when it comes to sending your near limit—or, perhaps, beyond limit!—project boulder or route. Quite often it's the tiniest of things that can make or break your ascent. Eric covers a lot of territories including the power of proper breathing, the best time of the day to send, the effects of food and drink on energy and focus, how to get the perfect warm-up, how long to rest between attempts, how to win the skin game, the importance of the shoes you wear, how your thinking can make or break a send go, and so much more. RUNDOWN 3:40 - 13 Little Things That Make a BIG Difference When Limit Climbing 4:15 - 1. The first “little, big thing” is to breathe more intentionally. Learn how to do it...to save energy, accelerate recovery, and help maintain focus and confidence. 10:30 - 2. Climb during the optimal time of the day. Learn how to plan your send goes for your strongest (and the stickiest) time of day. 14:17 - 3. Eat & drink appropriately. Learn how much you should drink and eat for a short session--or a full day--at the boulders or crags. 20:00 - 4. Empty bladder and bowels beforehand. Learn how to deal with golf ball bladder...and lighten the load before your send go. Click here for information about the benefits of MAG-ATP supplement from PhysiVantage. 26:30 - 5. Get a perfect warm-up! Learn the 7 steps of doing a perfect pre-send warm-up. Also, listen to Podcast #67 for a comprehensive discussion of the physiology of getting properly warmed up for hard climbing. SPONSOR MESSAGE: Less pump, more endurance -- Sendure X! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com 32:13 - 6. Don’t Take Any Wasted Any Goes! AKA make every go count! Don't start up the climb with any uncertainty in beta. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure-up your beta. 39:43 - 7. If needed, take a practice go (with hangs) to sure up your beta. 41:41 - 8. Rest appropriately between goes. How minutes (or hours) should you rest between boulder problem and sport climb attempts? 45:03 - 9. Rest optimally on the route. Climb fast and rest well! Know how to use optimally whatever rests the boulder or route offers you! 46:13 - 10. Win the skin game! Learn how to make your skin last longer... 51:03 - 11. Brush the most critical holds! This is critical for increasing friction on small, slopey holds. Brush liberally. 52:28 - 12. Make sure you’re wearing the right shoes for the boulder or route at hand. If you're not packing in two different pairs of shoes, you should consider it! 55:13 - 13. Believe in a positive outcome, but let go of the need to succeed. Accept that the send will happen when it's meant to happen. Enjoy climbing the piece of rock in front of you...and take it one move at a time. 58:43 - Bonus Tip: Have a great belayer you can trust…AND a stoked and supportive ground crew that knows when to yell encouragements at you…and when to shut up and let you take care of business. 1:00:38 - Do YOU have a favor send tip? Share your "little, big" send tip to Eric and perhaps he'll feature it on a future podcast. You can leave your tip on Eric's Twitter @Train4Climbing or on the Training for Climbing Instagram @Training4Climbing or T4C Facebook page. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva , Maxim Ropes , DMM Climbing , Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel . Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.…
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1 #107: Last-Minute Secrets to Climbing Your Best (and Preventing the Punt!) 38:01
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One of the ironies of climbing performance outcomes is that as hard as you've physically trained in preparation, the outcome often hinges on the quality of your mental game. The power point, here, is that when it comes down to the final days and hours leading up to an important climb, the keys to performing your best are largely mental! While many athletes "shoot themselves in the foot” in any number of ways in the days or hours leading up to competition — or even during the sports event itself! — a well-coached and mentally apt and experienced individual will act in deliberate ways to set the stage for peak performance. Towards this end, I'm going to detail 8 so called "last-minute" things you can do (or not do) that will help set the stage for climbing your best when it counts most. The more of these items that you deliberately optimize, the better you’ll sort of stack the deck for performing your best when it counts. Support the TFC podcast...and amplify your training and performance with PhysiVantage Nutrition! This month (Rock-tober) only, get 20% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST20 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Links to more Training For Climbing! The Power of Pre-Climb Rituals >> 10 Does and Don'ts of Effective Redpointing >> How To Develop Stronger Fingers and Tendons for Climbing >> Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva , Maxim Ropes , DMM Climbing , Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel . Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.…
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1 #106: Biohacks and Blood Work to Support Climbing Performance 20:01
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This 20-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics: 1. Popular training biohacks, including sauna use, cold plunge, and intermittent fasting. 2. The value of getting an occasional blood work-up to monitor how your health and performance-related biometrics change as a result of diet, training, and aging. This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast . T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva , Maxim Ropes , DMM Climbing , Friction Labs Music Remix of the Police Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel . Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.…
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1 #105: Stretching Strategies and Injury Trends 15:31
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This 15-minute flash episode will delve briefly into two topics: 1, Stretching for climbers -- learn what to do and when. 2. Recent injury trends...and the number #1 thing you can do to lower your injury risk. This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast . T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva , Maxim Ropes , DMM Climbing , Friction Labs Music Remix of the Police Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel . Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.…
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1 #104: Tips for Raising Happy, Healthy Climbing Kids 14:44
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In this Flash episode, I'm going to talk briefly about raising happy, healthy kids with a passion for climbing! There's no "right" way to raise kid climbers...but I'm going to share the approach that my wife and I used to develop well-rounded kids who, today as young adults (ages 22 and 24), love climbing more than ever! This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast . T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva , Maxim Ropes , DMM Climbing , Friction Labs Music: Remix of The Police Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel . Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.…
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1 #103: Online vs. In-Person Coaching & How Training Has Changed in the Last 40 Years 19:36
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This month, I'm serving up multiple "Flash Episodes" of the T4C podcast -- released weekly -- that you can consume in less than 20 minutes. The topics covered in this first episode...include the pros/cons of online coaching...and a generalized look at how training (and nutrition) for climbers has changed over the last 40 years. Upcoming Flash Episodes in September (released weekly) will examine these topics: How to raise kid climbers...to be happy, healthy athletes...and, hopefully, pass on the gift of becoming a climber for life. How (and when) to stretch and train flexibility for climbing. Also, a pithy discussion of climbing injury trends. Potential benefits (and drawbacks) of ice baths (or cold plunges), intermittent fasting, and sauna use. This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast . T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva , Maxim Ropes , DMM Climbing , Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel . Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.…
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1 #102: The Road to 5.13a - Part 4: Closing the Deal! 1:29:58
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What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for Ryan Devlin as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force". This is a follow-up to episodes #86, #91, and #94, in which I coach Ryan through the long process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way, including a minor finger/hand injury early this year. We'll discuss Ryan's training plan for the next 6 to 8 weeks until the Autumn "send season" arrives. We'll also dig deep into these important topics: What went right and wrong on the almost-send last season How to carry a project over from one season to the next The secret to being a successful route climber Aerobic vs Anaerobic endurance training The science of building route fitness Why many climbers are training endurance wrong So lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be! This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva , Maxim Ropes , DMM Climbing , Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel . Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.…
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1 #101: EXPERT: Optimizing Training, Health, and Performance with Functional Medicine 1:04:14
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Many enthusiastic climbers work hard to level up their performance year over year, and some of us invest great time, effort, and resources into pursuing our climbing goals. One powerful tool for gaining a performance edge is the use of a functional medicine approach to blood testing…which is the focus of this episode of the T4C podcast. My expert guest joining us for this episode….is Thomas Cunningham, a Louisville Kentucky-based doctor, who also happens to be a 5.14 climber! Dr. Cunningham is a board-certified physician, researcher, and functional medicine specialist who believes in combining evidence-based medicine, nutrition, and training to improve your health, wellness, and human performance. The specific focus of this podcast is the use of regular blood testing, and how you can potentially use blood test results to adjust your nutrition and training in ways that amplify your efforts, accelerate recovery, boost performance, and enhance your overall health and well-being. RUNDOWN 00:15 – T4C podcast mission statement 00:45 – The things we do to level up our performance 1:10 – Intro of podcast topic: Blood testing to optimize health and performance 1:35 – Introducing our expert, Dr. Thomas Cunningham (Instagram: @thomascunninghammd.com ) 2:30 – Use of blood test biomarkers 3:45 – Value for older athletes 4:10 – Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- used by 2024 Olympians Natalia Grossman, Alex Megos, and Yannick Flohe'. Get your PhysiVantage at 15% off (code: PODCAST15) at PhysiVantage.com 5:00 – Interview with Dr. Thomas Cunningham 5:30 – What is functional medicine: “Medicine 3.0” 9:30 – Preventative health care through your primary physician – The "Big 4 Killers" 11:20 – Pursuit of “optimal” rather than “average” 14:00 - What testing is appropriate for 20-somethings vs. 50-somethings, etc. 16:40 – “Treat the patient, don’t treat the numbers!” 19:15 – Basic blood panels: Metabolic, Lipid, Complete blood count 22:25 – Self-order/self-pay bloodwork at Quest.com or UltaLabs.com 23:30 – More nuanced blood work to consider: Vitamin D, Hormone Panel, Thyroid Panel, HbA1c, ApoB 31:45 – Vitamin supplements to support Testosterone – vitamin D3, zinc, selenium, boron. ( PhysiVantage Nutrition VITALIUM is a single-source supplement containing these micronutrients.) 35:00 – The role of genetics, stress, training, nutrition, and sleep. 37:10 – Considerations for vegan athletes. Supplements to consider: B-6, B-12, Iron, D3 + k2, iodine 40:00 – The journey toward optimization. 47:02 – Considerations for female athletes – abnormalities to watch for and treat. 49:50 – Thyroid function and blood panels 53:00 – Hormone changes in women 55:00 – A brief mention of peptides 57:00 – Get the low-hanging fruit…by getting your sleep and nutrition on point…and do some strength training every week. 1:01:00 – Final thoughts Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva , Maxim Ropes , DMM Climbing , Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel . Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.…
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1 #100: The 10 Secrets to Climbing Harder! 1:04:55
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To celebrate the 100th episode of the T4C podcast, I wanted to serve up a powerful, comprehensive, yet easily digestible and actionable list of things you can do today to break through a performance plateau...and begin a journey towards being the best climber you can be! No matter your current experience or level of climbing, I guarantee that you will find this episode to be a tour de force of things you can do to accelerate your rate of improvement...and increase your confidence, joy, and experience while climbing. Therefore, a more accurate title of this podcast might be..."The 10 secrets to accelerating improvement and climbing your very best!" I've got a lot of territory to cover in the next hour, so let's get started! Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva , Maxim Ropes , DMM Climbing , Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel . Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.…
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1 #99: EXPERT: How Climbing Shoes Affect Your Performance. Big time! 56:24
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When it comes to climbing, no single piece of gear is more influential on your performance than your shoes. Getting the right shoe fit and feel for a given boulder or route is critical to climbing your best! However, there are dozens of climbing shoes on the market with widely varying designs, looks, and prices. What's the right shoe(s) for your gym training and outdoor rock climbing? What features should you look for? How tight should you fit your shoes? Our shoe expert, Michael Genauer from La Sportiva NA, will answer these questions and many more in this episode. Listen and learn how to make your climbing shoes perform better for you! Reminder: T4C episode #97 provided a look into the science of chalk and optimal chalk use. Combined with today's podcast #99, these two episodes provide a comprehensive look into the quality of your four points of contact with the rock. If you want to climb better, then you must strive to optimize your purchase with each contact point. RUNDOWN 00:20 - Introduction 1:30 - Building on podcast #97 , my interview with Kevin Brown about the science of chalk and optimal chalk use. 2:00 - Now we look at the feet! How shoe design, fit, comfort, and price affect footwork and climbing performance. 4:00 - Podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15. 7:00 - Overview of shoe design, parts, and craftsmanship. 10:00 - Heel structure and performance. 16:10 - Downpointing and asymmetric shoes for high-performance sport climbing and bouldering. Details on the La Sportiva "PD #". 18:45 - Entry-level shoes versus high-performance fit. 20:50 - Why outdoor climbers likely need 2 or more different pairs of shoes....for optimal performance on different rock types and climbing styles. 22:00 - Lace-up shoes versus slip-on shoes. 27:15 - Lined versus unlined? 29:10 - How much should you "size down" your climbing shoes (compared to your approach shoe size)? 32:05 - Shoe fit for kid crushers! Tips to optimize performance and reduce risk of toe/foot injury. 33:20 - Shoe rubber, stickiness, and temperature effect on optimal rubber performance. 38:50 - Proper care tips for maintaining your shoe's performance and extending the life of the shoe...so hopefully you can get a couple of resoles out of each pair of new shoes. 40:20 - When to resole your shoes? 46:10 - Does the country a shoe is manufactured in tell us anything about the quality and performance of a shoe? 52:00 - Closing thoughts, and discussion about La Sportiva's new retail shoe in Boulder, CO. Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva , Maxim Ropes , DMM Climbing , Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel . Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.…
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1 #98: Training for Bouldering with Drew Ruana vs. Training for Route Climbing 35:01
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In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier. You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route climbing, particularly concerning the energy systems that power climbing movements. Eric with detail his climbing-specific aerobic system route training session at the G1 gym. Eric will then describe Drew's unique limit boulder training methodology that's elevated him to being one of the very best boulderers on the planet. Learn how Drew puts his home woodie to work for maximum gains! Whether your climbing focus is boulders or routes, this pithy reductionist analysis of training for climbing will engage and enlighten passionate climbers of all ability levels. *** Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition . Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). *** In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva , Maxim Ropes , DMM Climbing , Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel . Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.…
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